Zone focusing made easier

Zone focusing allows you to preset your camera’s focus and aperture, enabling you to take multiple shots without adjusting the focus. This way, it´s possible to shoot more pictures in the street without making a precise focus adjustment each time. It demands you compose well when all elements are sharp because with this method, we operate with a greater depth of field (DOF).

Selecting the best lenses for zone focusing

  • Shorter lenses (35mm – 50mm or less): These lenses have a greater depth of field, making them ideal for zone focusing.
  • Wider lenses: I prefer the look of 24 – 35mm lenses, as they are useful for street photography, including larger scenes.

Manual Lenses Manual lenses are easiest for zone focusing because they have distance scales, unlike most autofocus lenses.

How to preset manual lenses

Focus on something about one-third of the distance from the nearest to the farthest point in your desired zone.

Then set your aperture:

You might want a zone from 1 meter (3 feet) to 4 meters (12 feet) with a 35mm lens at f/16. Focus at 2 meters (6 feet), which is about one-third of the way. This way, you have a good zone that is within focus.

Pre-setting autofocus lenses is done this way:

Set your camera to manual focus.

Next, simply follow the same steps as for manual lenses.

On some lenses, there are marks you can use to determine the focus area within a certain distance.

The key is setting the infinity symbol over a selected aperture mark, making it an easy way to set focus at the hyperfocal distance, which is 8.4 feet for any 35mm lens at f/16. On a 28mm lens, you will have a wider area in focus, and on a 50mm lens, it will be narrower.

When framing, the near and far subjects won’t be in the center because the composition and framing logically want to separate the objects so they do not cover each other.
Depending on the quality of the lens used, an object placed a the edge of the frame and not in the center may seem softer or a bit out of focus if the lens can’t render it sharply in this position of the frame. This is purely a matter of glass and lens quality.

Using the Depth of Field Scales on Manual Lenses

Here are three examples of setting the manual lens according to the depth of field scales on manual lenses where this is shown

f16 – example 1

At the lens, there is a row of numbers from 2 – 16 indicating the aperture setting. Note that it splits in the center, and the numbers are mirrored to the opposite side.
Marked with yellow rings: The aperture is set to 16 at the aperture ring. The infinity symbol then is set as precisely as possible above the 16 on the Depth of Field Scale at the right side (marked with red rings).

Reading the Depth of Field Scale now shows that the focus area is between infinity and up to approximately 2,8 meters.

f8 – example 2

Setting the aperture to f8 narrows down the in-focus area to be between infinity and 11 meters.

f4 – example 3

Setting the aperture to f4 shows the in-focus area to be between infinity and 22 meters.

Helpful additional tools

To be more precise, it’s possible to use a calculator app that you can easily have on your phone when needed. With a little training, you don’t need to do this very often, but you will know your setting if practised regularly.

Especially helpful if the lens used doesn’t show a Depth of Field Scale. Search for “depth of field calculator” on your app store, and it will likely show up.
Currently, I use one named DOF CALCULATOR, and a screenshot is shown here.

You can choose the focal distance, focal length (50mm lens, for example), the chosen aperture and what sensor size of format you use.
Then, you get the pieces of information at the top indicating the depth of field so you have a good prediction of what will be in focus.

Please remember that focus isn’t the same as sharpness. Sharpness can be influenced by a poor lens, a shaken camera or moving objects on shutter speed to slow creating motion blur.

Workshops

Zone focus techniques are practised on the workshops I do. Sign up today and learn to handle your camera better, and explore photography techniques and vision. Join a Morten Albek Workshop today.

Join me for a weekend shoot in the streets of Rome, Copenhagen or Paris, and learn more about camera settings, choosing the best lenses and finding light and motives. Read more at the workshop page and sign up soon to get a spot.


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Zone focusing made easier

ZONE FOCUSING

MADE EASIER

Zone focusing allows you to preset your camera’s focus and aperture, enabling you to take multiple shots without adjusting the focus. This way, it´s possible to shoot more pictures in the street without making a precise focus adjustment each time. It demands you compose well when all elements are sharp because with this method, we operate with a greater depth of field (DOF).

Selecting the best lenses for zone focusing

  • Shorter lenses (35mm – 50mm or less): These lenses have a greater depth of field, making them ideal for zone focusing.

  • Wider lenses: I prefer the look of 24 – 35mm lenses, as they are useful for street photography, including larger scenes.

Manual Lenses Manual lenses are easiest for zone focusing because they have distance scales, unlike most autofocus lenses.

How to preset manual lenses

Focus on something about one-third of the distance from the nearest to the farthest point in your desired zone.

Then set your aperture:

You might want a zone from 1 meter (3 feet) to 4 meters (12 feet) with a 35mm lens at f/16. Focus at 2 meters (6 feet), which is about one-third of the way. This way, you have a good zone that is within focus. 

Pre-setting autofocus lenses is done this way:

Set your camera to manual focus.

Next, simply follow the same steps as for manual lenses.

On some lenses, there are marks you can use to determine the focus area within a certain distance. 

The key is setting the infinity symbol over a selected aperture mark, making it an easy way to set focus at the hyperfocal distance, which is 8.4 feet for any 35mm lens at f/16. On a 28mm lens, you will have a wider area in focus, and on a 50mm lens, it will be narrower.

When framing, the near and far subjects won’t be in the center because the composition and framing logically want to separate the objects so they do not cover each other.
Depending on the quality of the lens used, an object placed a the edge of the frame and not in the center may seem softer or a bit out of focus if the lens can’t render it sharply in this position of the frame. This is purely a matter of glass and lens quality.

Using the Depth of Field Scales on Manual Lenses

Here are three examples of setting the manual lens according to the depth of field scales on manual lenses where this is shown

f16 - example 1

At the lens, there is a row of numbers from 2 – 16 indicating the aperture setting. Note that it splits in the center, and the numbers are mirrored to the opposite side. 
Marked with yellow rings: The aperture is set to 16 at the aperture ring. The infinity symbol then is set as precisely as possible above the 16 on the Depth of Field Scale at the right side (marked with red rings).

Reading the Depth of Field Scale now shows that the focus area is between infinity and up to approximately 2,8 meters. 

f8 - example 2

Setting the aperture to f8 narrows down the in-focus area to be between infinity and 11 meters. 

f4 - example 3

Setting the aperture to f4 shows the in-focus area to be between infinity and 22 meters. 

Helpful additional tools

To be more precise, it’s possible to use a calculator app that you can easily have on your phone when needed. With a little training, you don’t need to do this very often, but you will know your setting if practised regularly. 

Especially helpful if the lens used doesn’t show a Depth of Field Scale. Search for “depth of field calculator” on your app store, and it will likely show up. 
Currently, I use one named DOF CALCULATOR, and a screenshot is shown here. 

You can choose the focal distance, focal length (50mm lens, for example), the chosen aperture and what sensor size of format you use. 
Then, you get the pieces of information at the top indicating the depth of field so you have a good prediction of what will be in focus.

Please remember that focus isn’t the same as sharpness. Sharpness can be influenced by a poor lens, a shaken camera or moving objects on shutter speed to slow creating motion blur. 


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